MISSION LOGS & INTEL

Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
Central India

Riding Through Naxal Country: When Wildlife Isn’t the Most Dangerous Thing in the Forest

Central India’s forests are home to tigers, leopards, sloth bears, and the last significant populations of Indian wildlife outside the Himalayas. They’re also home to Maoist insurgents known as Naxalites, ongoing conflicts between tribal communities and the Indian state, and a security situation that makes wildlife watching secondary to not getting caught in an ambush. This is not information that

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Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
South India

Goa to Gokarna: A Recovering Hippie’s Guide to What Happened to the Vibe

The coastal route from Goa to Gokarna is only about 150 kilometers, but it crosses a cultural border more significant than the state line between Goa and Karnataka. On one side: Goa, the hippie trail destination that became a rave destination that became a Russian tourist destination that’s now trying to remember what it was supposed to be. On the

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Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
South India

God’s Own Traffic: Kerala’s Backroads and the Theology of Near-Misses

Kerala calls itself “God’s Own Country,” which is either supreme confidence or extreme irony depending on whether you’re looking at the landscape or the traffic. The state’s tourism board has successfully marketed this slogan to international travelers who arrive expecting divine intervention and instead discover they’ll need it just to cross the street. The landscape genuinely is beautiful – backwaters

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Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
Vietnam

Hoi An Tailors and the Existential Dread of Custom Motorcycle Suits

Hoi An is a UNESCO World Heritage town on Vietnam’s central coast, famous for its preserved ancient architecture, riverside lanterns, and an absolutely improbable concentration of tailor shops. There are approximately 400 tailors in a town of 120,000 people. This is one tailor for every 300 residents, which suggests either that Hoi An’s population is extraordinarily well-dressed or that something

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Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
Vietnam

The Zen of Almost Dying in Vietnamese Traffic: A Meditation on Chaos Theory

Crossing a street in Hanoi requires abandoning everything you’ve learned about traffic safety and embracing a philosophy that resembles faith, game theory, and collective hallucination. There are no crosswalks that matter, no pedestrian signals that anyone obeys, and no moment when traffic actually stops. Instead, you step into the flow and trust that dozens of motorcycles will somehow avoid hitting

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Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
Vietnam

Pho, Propaganda, and Potholes: The Ho Chi Minh Highway as Metaphor

The Ho Chi Minh Highway runs nearly 3,000 kilometers from Hanoi in the north to Ca Mau in the south, roughly paralleling the famous Ho Chi Minh Trail that was used during the Vietnam War. The name carries weight – Ho Chi Minh is Vietnam’s founding father, the George Washington of Vietnamese nationalism, except instead of a powdered wig he

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Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
Vietnam

Ha Giang Loop: Where Communism, Capitalism, and Carburetors Collide

The Ha Giang Loop in northern Vietnam is 350 kilometers of mountain roads that have become the backpacker’s rite of passage for Southeast Asia. You rent a semi-automatic motorcycle in Ha Giang City – usually a Chinese-made Honda Wave knock-off with questionable brake function – and spend three to four days riding through minority villages, rice terraces, and scenery that

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Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
Sach Pass

The Tyranny of the Road That Doesn’t Exist: Sach Pass and the Maps That Lie

Google Maps shows Sach Pass as a yellow line connecting Bairagarh to Killar. This line is technically accurate and functionally meaningless – like saying a body contains water. Yes, true, but missing some important context about whether that body is alive, dead, or in the process of drowning. The question “Is Sach Pass open?” is possibly the most philosophical inquiry

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Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
Sach Pass

Sach Pass: Where Your Motorcycle Goes to Question Its Life Choices

There’s a particular moment on Sach Pass – usually around the third water crossing when you’re already exhausted, wet, and beginning to suspect you’ve made a terrible mistake – when you look at your motorcycle and can sense its betrayal. This machine, which has reliably transported you across thousands of kilometers, is now making sounds that suggest it’s filing for

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Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
Ladakh

Chang, Monks, and the Military: The Unholy Trinity of Ladakhi Nightlife

Ladakh’s nightlife exists in a theological paradox that would make Joseph Heller proud. In the same valley where monks practice celibacy and meditation, you’ll find army canteens serving rum at prices that suggest the government is actively encouraging alcoholism, and local bars where chang – Ladakhi barley beer – flows with the blessing of grandmothers who’ve been brewing it for

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Motorcycle riders on mountain trail with scenic mountain views in background.
Ladakh

The Last Petrol Pump Before Enlightenment: Economics, Existentialism, and Empty Tanks on the Manali-Leh Highway

The petrol pump at Tandi, just after you leave Keylong, has a sign that should be carved into every adventure rider’s consciousness: “Last fuel for 365 kilometers.” This is not a suggestion. This is not tourism board hyperbole. This is a simple statement of fact that separates optimists from people who understand math. Three hundred and sixty-five kilometers is a

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